Clothes Show Report - Part 1

The Clothes Show London ran from 25-27 June 2010 at Earl’s Court. My conclusion? Not enough eco fashion! Punters told me they wanted more. Supply is not meeting demand.

www.clothesshowlondon.com

Exclusive Interview with Nicola Woods from Eco Fashion Label Beautiful Soul

Fashion is a bit like food. Organic food and organic cotton. Fairtrade food and fairtrade clothing. Even local food and local fashion help to reduce climate change by reducing the ‘food miles’ or ‘fashion miles’ of transporting materials around the globe. I caught up with Nicola Woods, founder of Eco Fashion label Beautiful Soul, to find out how and why she wants to make fashion more palatable.


Nicola, can you tell us a bit about your background and involvement in the Eco Fashion industry?

I have a slightly unusual route in to the Fashion Industry. I remember writing to ‘Jim’ll Fix It’ to make me a fashion designer, but life has twists and turns and I found myself caught up in the rat race. The lifestyle it provided seemed to outweigh my lack of passion for my work (Insurance Broking). Something was missing, but I didn’t know how I would cope without the next pay rise. I was stuck in a rut and the security of payday seemed to mist the way. How could I possibly cope without my luxuries.

I had the opportunity to backpack around the world with my best friend and breaking away from the rat race for the first time in my adult life, gave me an insight into living on a budget. I was starting to see life in a different light, with endless opportunities.

Whilst in Tokyo, something happened to me. I was surrounded by the most amazing boutiques. I was like a child in a sweet shop. Mesmerised. Excited. Totally Inspired. Something inside me quite literally *came to life* (hence my love of vintage kimonos).

I realised that I needed to make radical changes. I accepted that everything else would have to be put on hold. I needed the opportunity and guidance to follow my dreams of becoming a fashion designer. I had buried these dreams for too long. I was determined to make this happen. I had found my calling.

I haven’t looked back since. I graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2008, with a BA (Hons) in Fashion: Design and Technology (Creative Pattern Cutter). During my final year, I was involved in a project based around ‘saving the earth’. I was hooked. Fashion with a TRUE meaning, for me, is the only way forward. It makes sense and it adds to my determination.

Fresh from graduating, I won a scholarship through the Centre for Sustainable Fashion and worked as a designer for a South African charity. The work I carried out with Tabeisa, an organisation committed to supporting disadvantaged communities across Africa, sparked a determination to set up my own sustainable fashion label and Beautiful Soul became a reality in November 2008.



Why was the name Beautiful Soul chosen, and what are the main eco credentials of your products?

Beautiful Soul is my nickname given to me by one of my closet friends. I am all or nothing and I thrive on challenge. Beautiful Soul aims to recycle the most 'scrumptious ingredients' from around the world sympathetically, and has made a name for itself with its unique use of vintage Japanese kimonos. The label does not conform to 'throw away fashion' but instead combines luxurious vintage fabrics with sustainable alternatives, such as British wool (sourced from Izzy Lane) and peace silk and organic jacquard (sourced from Tammam). The materials and innovative design combine to give the wearer a truly unique fashion experience.

Silhouettes are considered throughout the design process and a strong emphasis is placed on product longevity, multi function and garment adjustability, offering a versatility determined by our change in body contours. Material remnants feature as fastenings and embellishments, providing a solution to 'zero' waste. Beautiful Soul’s collections are expertly made in London.


What makes Beautiful Soul different from other Eco Fashion brands?

The combination of ingredients.


Where can people buy Beautiful Soul clothing?

You can visit Beautiful Soul’s website for a full list of Stockists: www.beautiful-soul.co.uk.

Current Stockists:
Ascension Boutique: www.ascensiononline.com
Beautiful Soul: www.beautiful-soul.co.uk
Junky Styling: www.junkystyling.co.uk
V&A: www.vam.ac.uk


How do you think the Eco Fashion industry is different in the UK and other countries?

Judging by the feedback from visitors at London Fashion Week, I believe that London is leading the way when it comes to Ethical Fashion. I am proud to contribute to such a positive movement. It’s truly exciting.


What do you think the future holds for Beautiful Soul and the Eco Fashion industry?

It is very early days for Beautiful Soul, but I thrive on challenge and I am extremely driven by my ethos. Change is difficult to influence, as a lone player, but individuals acting as a unified force can make change tangible. Since starting out, I have learnt that there are no rights or wrongs in ethical fashion. The most important thing is to stay true to yourself, keep an open mind and offer transparency. I am at my happiest when I am sharing and believe that this is the most effective way of pushing responsible fashion in to the mainstream.


If readers want to know more about your company or see your next show, where can they find out more information, and who should they contact?

They can visit Beautiful Soul’s website and join our Facebook page (through our homepage) to keep up to date with all our news. There are so many exciting things happening!



Atul Srivastava
www.ecoexpert.tv
atul@ecoexpert.tv
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Which of the main 3 UK political parties is the most eco friendly?

Please rank the main 3 UK political parties in order of which is the most eco friendly!

Have your say by:
-voting on this Blog
-voting on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ecoexperttv
-voting by email to: atul@ecoexpert.tv

Please set out your votes by:
1. Most eco friendly party
2. Middle party
3. Least eco friendly party

The results of your votes will be published in Eco News, on this Blog and on my Twitter page!

Please include any relevant quotes if you wish, indicating whether or not you give permission for your name to be published or you wish your quote to be anonymous.

Thanks!



Atul Srivastava
www.ecoexpert.tv
Follow my daily updates of Eco News: http://twitter.com/ecoexperttv

Eco-Election

• A Brief History of Eco-Issues in General Election Campaigns in the UK
• The General Election Campaigns in the UK in 2010


A general election is an opportunity to examine global, national and local environmental politics.

The image of the Earth as a circular object with clearly defined limits is perhaps the most succinct and pervasive image that can be used to express concern for environmental management. In circulation since 1969, the year that startling images of planet Earth were relayed from the surface of the moon, they fundamentally recast environmental perceptions and legitimated the environment as a major political issue. The subsequent message of a key book published in 1972, The Limits to Growth, that infinite consumption of non-renewable resources within a finite system is impossible, was the starting point for the Green Party of England and Wales, contesting its first general election in February 1974.

There was a shift in the 1960s and 1970s away from previously deeply entrenched party loyalties, and towards “judging parties according to their stances on the issues of the day” (Pattie, 1990).

Environmental issues reached an electoral high point in the 1989 European elections, where the 14.9 per cent share of the vote won by the Green Party was the highest ever won by a Green party in any national election in any European state (Garner, 2000). However, the ‘first past the post system’ meant that the Green Party won no seats in the European Parliament. In 1999 the European elections were run on a form of proportional representation, and the Green Party elected Caroline Lucas and Jean Lambert to the European Parliament (Dobson, 2000).

By May 2001 David Watts, Liberal Democrat candidate for Broxtowe, wrote in the Nottinghamshire Evening Post that “The protection and preservation of the environment is the single biggest issue facing the world”. The Ecologist published the results of its ‘Great British Environmental Survey’ in May 2001, revealing that over half of the electorate were about to vote, to some extent at least, on the basis of environmental policy.

The Liberal Democrats worked with Friends of the Earth to produce their 2001 election manifesto. FoE helped them to integrate a green column onto every page of the manifesto, rather than bolt on an ‘Environment’ page at the end. In contrast, the Labour manifesto placed climate change policy at the end of the manifesto, rather than being integrated into other policy areas.

During my interview with David Watts in 2001, he revealed that many local environmental policies were actually justified to voters on social or economic grounds. For example, the proposed bus lane on the A52 in Nottinghamshire was justified for its social and economic benefits rather than environmental. Similarly, local campaign leaflets justified energy efficiency policies in economic terms rather than environmental.

With the General Election in 2010 approaching, it appears that the environment is steadily moving up the political agenda, but driven by social and economic rather than purely environmental incentives. I will be watching the election campaigns carefully to see how social, economic and environmental incentives are expressed in 2010!




Atul Srivastava
www.ecoexpert.tv

Zero Heroes - London’s Zero Food Waste Heroes

Waste has an image problem. For many there’s a perception that it’s not in vogue, not as important or ‘sexy’ an environmental issue as climate change or water shortages. Yet agriculture is the world’s largest consumer of water, and the food miles required to transport food around the world contributes to climate change, which in turn disproportionately affects the poorest people in the world. Reduce food waste and you’re dealing with a multitude of environmental and moral injustices. I met with Chris Wilkie from London Citizens Greener Planet Action Team, to find out what they’re doing about all the food waste in London.

30-03-2010


Chris, can you tell us a bit about London Citizens, and the Greener Planet Action Team?
London Citizens is a charity with a large membership of faith groups, universities, schools, trades unions and other community organisations, working together on a wide range of important social issues across the Capital. In the couple of years I have been working with them I have seen amazing progress on issues including the London Living Wage, affordable housing, engaging communities in tackling street crime and immigration/asylum issues. London Citizens is not affiliated to any political party, so it can work independently with no political influence. Issues to be tackled are chosen democratically by the members.

The Greener Planet Action Team (GPAT) is a group within London Citizens, formed almost three years ago to tackle environmental issues across London. In May 2008 we held an event called London’s Green Future at Imperial College, featuring guest speakers and workshops with experts such as London’s Green MEP, Jean Lambert, and the environmental broadcaster Mark Dowd. In January 2009, together with Transport for London and the major newspaper publishers, we launched a publicity campaign on tube trains, in stations and on buses, encouraging people to recycle the free newspapers they picked up each day. Throughout 2009 we delivered a series of environmental training workshops for our member organisations. Last November we held a screening of the film “The Age of Stupid” followed by a discussion on which major issue to tackle in 2010. We decided that the problem of food waste was an area where we could make a real difference in our communities. This is how Plan Zheroes was born.

So what is Plan Zheroes and what does it aim to achieve?
Plan Zheroes is the name we have given to our food waste project. The aim is to prevent good food from becoming waste, ideally creating zero waste. Those achieving this would be promoted as “zero heroes”, hence Zheroes!

We want to create links between food donators (e.g. supermarkets, restaurants, schools etc,) and people who really need the food. Our aim is to inspire as many businesses as possible to help us solve this environmental and social issue.

Why do you think supermarkets, restaurants, schools or other businesses will want to be a part of Plan Zheroes? Will it help them to save money?
They will want to participate because they all recognise the problem of food waste, they aspire to be more environmentally and socially proactive and we will help them celebrate and publicise their successes. I think it is too early to say whether it will help the supermarkets save money but those who receive the food will certainly make savings.

Where will the food be directed and who will benefit most?
The idea is to redirect the food to organisations who help people on low incomes, the homeless, perhaps the elderly – in fact anyone who can benefit from it. We know that many families and individuals are struggling financially and cannot afford to eat properly every day. For example, we heard of one family which can only afford to give one member a hot meal each day, so they have to take it in turns. This is a really unacceptable situation when so much food is simply thrown away each day in London. The Greener Planet Action team is determined to help do something about it.


Which other organisations are you consulting for advice and support for Plan Zheroes?
We have already had discussions with The Green Alliance, Waste Watch, The Soil Association, FareShare, and Ealing Friends of the Earth. We will work together with these and other organisations as the project develops. Our aim is not to reinvent the wheel where good work has already begun but to add the considerable influence and power of London Citizens.

What are the timescales for Plan Zheroes to start taking shape?
We began the project in January this year and are currently gathering evidence about good and bad practice in food waste management, piloting surveys initially in West London. We anticipate this will take until May, at which point we will assess the success of the pilot and modify the surveys if required. After May we will use volunteers from our member organisations across London to continue gathering data and begin matching donators of food with organisations who can redirect it to those who need it. I would like to see some tangible results, i.e. systems in place where food is being donated and used, by this summer.

And finally, if readers want to know more, support or get involved, where can they find out more information, and who should they contact?
Further information will be available on the London Citizens’ website - www.londoncitizens.org.uk. Anyone interested can contact me by email at chris.wilkie@tiscali.co.uk or on 07985 306 832 if they would like to find out more or help us with this very important work. The more volunteers we have, the bigger impact we will make! Thanks, Atul, for giving us the opportunity to publicise Plan Zheroes.




Atul Srivastava
www.ecoexpert.tv
Follow me each day on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ecoexperttv

EcoSaving Property: Report from Ecobuild 2010

Ecobuild is the world’s biggest event for sustainable design, construction and the built environment, bringing together more than 1,000 suppliers of sustainable construction products at Earl’s Court on 2 – 4 March 2010. I teamed up with cameraman Felix Gonzales and interviewed Emma from Buglife about green roofs and how they can save people money, at the same time as proving a high rise home for wildlife.

08-03-2010


About a quarter of the UK’s carbon emissions come from our homes. With fuel prices on the rise, there is increasing incentive for us to reduce our energy use in our homes and business premises. By undertaking straightforward measures like insulation, and simple actions like switching to low energy light bulbs, a typical householder would save about £300 a year, potentially over £500 a year.

The Energy Savings Trust is a major player in the eco property industry. They have quantified the following top tips for saving money in your property.

1. You can save around £55 per year for every one degree Celcius you turn the thermostat down.
2. Upgrade to Energy Saving Recommended appliances and save up to £36 a year.
3. Turn appliances off standby and save around £33 a year.
4. Replace single glazing with double glazing and save around £135 a year on heating bills.
5. Replace inefficient light bulbs with low energy light bulbs and save around £37 a year.
6. Save around £25 a year by draught proofing around windows and doors.
7. Insulate your loft to the full recommended depth of 270mm and save up to £150 a year.
8. Insulate your hot water tank and pipes, and save around £45 a year.

Total savings: £516 a year!

Over 1,000 suppliers were demonstrating their products at Ecobuild 2010, I couldn’t possibly get around to see all of them. In essence they were mostly trying to do the same thing: help us to achieve the ‘EcoSavings’ listed above. There were some innovative approaches, such as Mira Showers, who have invented an Eco showerhead that reduces the amount of water used by up to 75%, saving money particularly for people on water meters, as well as saving money on the energy required to heat the water.

Amongst the usual suspects of companies displaying their innovative ways to insulate your boiler or stop heat escaping from your windows, there were also some unexpected exhibitors. Buglife, RSPB and the Bat Conservation Trust were on hand to explain how property and nature are intrinsically linked. I teamed up with cameraman Felix Gonzales and interviewed Emma from Buglife about living roofs, also known as green or brown roofs. Emma explained that they can save people money at the same time as providing a high rise home for wildlife. Green roofs provide extra insulation to a building, improving its heat efficiency, which means lower energy use at the same time as supporting an incredible diversity of wildlife, from birds to beetles and rare bumblebees.

No wonder Ecobuild was buzzing this year!


Atul Srivastava
Eco Expert
www.ecoexpert.tv
Follow me each day on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ecoexperttv

Sources and thanks to:
1. www.ecobuild.co.uk
2. www.buglife.org.uk
3. www.mirashowers.co.uk
4. The Sunday Telegraph Special Report: 31 January 2010
5. Fraser Winterbottom, Chief Operating Officer, Energy Saving Trust, quoted in The Sunday Telegraph Special Report: 31 January 2010

Model Thinking: The Economic Benefits of Eco Fashion

After speaking to many of the 28 Eco Designers at London Fashion Week, I felt the 'Slow Fashion' movement could benefit from publicity as money saving for individuals - buying fewer clothes, perhaps at slightly higher prices, that last much longer and therefore save people money in the long term.

Many of the 28 Eco Designers within the Estethica Exhibition at London Fashion Week mentioned the term ‘slow fashion’ during our impromptu interviews. The slow fashion movement aims to slow down the fast turnover of clothing in the retail industry, reducing clothing waste to landfill, and moving towards eco friendly clothing that lasts more than one or two fashion seasons. Men’s suits are a good example of slow fashion; you can wear the same smart jacket 15 times and remain fashionable, as long as you wash it occasionally.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from my experience in the environmental sector, it is to never forget the accepted and astonishingly simple model of sustainability. That model is portrayed by 3 interlinking ‘Olympic’ circles of sustainability: Environmental, Economic and Social. The central area where these 3 circles interlink is where true sustainability occurs. I’m yet to find an example where this model of thinking is not helpful.

I’d say the Eco Designers are all pretty sorted on the Environmental circle. Their eco clothing features organic cotton, recycled and up-cycled materials, pesticides free, etc. On the Social circle, a few of them quite rightly said the phrase ‘Fashion First’ – there’s no point being eco if no one wants to buy their clothes to look good for social occasions.

But what about the Economic circle? While some of the designers highlighted that slow fashion can save consumers money in the long term, my feeling was that this was not emphasised enough in their advertising strategies. Perhaps it’s the very labels eco, ethical or sustainable fashion themselves. These terms appeal to an altruistic sensibility that may make existing consumers feel good about wearing their clothes, but not necessarily reach new audiences concerned with economic self preservation during a recession.

If PR based on eco, ethical or sustainable fashion is preaching to the converted, how do they reach new customers?

As an environmentalist I’ve learnt to emphasise the economic and social benefits more than the environmental. Try emphasising your clothes as durable in your advertising, saving people money because they won’t need to buy new ones next year. If you make full use of all waste materials, try advertising this as efficiency and a means of keeping your costs low. If your materials are sourced within the UK, that’s a benefit primarily to the consumer who doesn’t have to ultimately foot the bill for the ‘fashion miles’ of flying materials around the world; the secondary benefit is reduced climate change.

Some of the designers were already using this model in their PR. I hope more Eco Designers benefit from this model of thinking.



Atul Srivastava
Eco Expert
www.ecoexpert.tv
Follow me each day on Twitter: http://twitter.com/ecoexperttv